When the '63 Corvette hit the showroom floor, it was an instant success. A bold new body style captured the hearts and minds of the automotive press and consumer alike. It's hard to believe that one of the major changes that would greatly benefit the Corvette's performance persona would be another two years down the road. A car that goes fast but cannot stop is deadly, and the designers at Chevrolet introduced disc brakes on Corvettes starting with the '65 model year and they haven't looked back.
Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation has looked back--back to the cars that should have utilized disc brakes. When engineering a kit to replace the drum brakes on the '63-'64 Corvettes, Stainless Steel Brakes included technology that not only exceeded the drums of the earlier cars but also contained benefits over using the factory disc setups that were such an improvement back in 1965. Its new Force 10 aluminum calipers are lighter, removing 16 pounds of unsprung weight from your Corvette's front suspension. Also, the Turbo slotted rotors have CNC-machined groove patterns for improved wet braking, reduced brake fade, and improved pad cleaning. These attributes are beneficial for any brake setup from '63 to '82, and light-years ahead of drum brakes. Follow along as we bring this '64 Corvette's front drum brakes into the next century.
DIFFICULTY INDEX
1 Anyone's Project--No tools required
2 Beginner--Basic tools
3 Experienced--Special tools
4 Accomplished--Special tools and outside help
5 Professionals Only--Send this work out
When removing the old drum-brake...
When removing the old drum-brake system, you can save some work and time by disconnecting the steering arm, brake line, and upper and lower ball joints. This will allow you to remove the entire backing plate, spindle, and brake assembly in one task. You'll eventually need to disassemble the brakes to get the hub out of the drum and steering arm, but the kit will have everything else you'll need. As always, be cautious of the coil springs. Use a spring compressor or put a jack under the lower control arm to prevent the spring from going into unexpected orbit.
If your ball joints need replacing,...
If your ball joints need replacing, this is the time to do it. If they're in good condition you can install the new spindle supplied in the kit. Don't forget to install the cotter pins.
Install the supplied caliper...
Install the supplied caliper mount and backing plate to the spindle.
Fasten the steering arm between...
Fasten the steering arm between the spindle and backing plate.
Stainless Steel Brakes supplies...
Stainless Steel Brakes supplies all new bearings and races in each kit, but you'll have to use the hub from the old system. Take the time to clean it thoroughly and inspect the lug bolts. This is the time to make any repairs.
Once the hub assembly is ready,...
Once the hub assembly is ready, install the new races along with the freshly packed bearings. Don't forget to install the new seal for the back of the hubs. Gently tap it into place with a hammer, being careful not to damage or warp the seal.
Install the hubs onto the...
Install the hubs onto the spindles, holding them in place with the new washer and castle nut.
There is also a cotter pin...
There is also a cotter pin included in the kit to keep the castle nut from loosening.
The rotor will simply slide...
The rotor will simply slide onto the hub. You'll notice that these aren't your standard rotors. They are Turbo rotors with the CNC-milled slots for better performance.
Next, install the new four-piston,...
Next, install the new four-piston, Force 10 calipers. They contain 43mm stainless steel pistons and, combined with the aluminum body, are approximately 8 pounds lighter than the original '65-'82 calipers.
Carbon-fiber/low-dust pads...
Carbon-fiber/low-dust pads are included in the kit. Once the caliper is bolted down they simply slide in place and are held there by the retaining pins.
We needed to get fluid to...
We needed to get fluid to the calipers if we were ever going to feel the difference a set of disc brakes can make. The steel-braided lines in our kit will easily take care of that chore. Make sure the line doesn't bind up from suspension travel or turning left or right.
The last thing we needed to...
The last thing we needed to do under our car was connect the steering arm. This is another opportunity to put cotter pins to good use.
Our car had a set of 15-inch...
Our car had a set of 15-inch American Racing five-spokes, and the brakes look great peeking out from behind them.
The kit comes with a new dual-reservoir...
The kit comes with a new dual-reservoir master cylinder so we could remove the single-reservoir unit. Keep it just in case you ever want to convert it back to original, but for now we want to enjoy the safety of a dual-reservoir unit. If the system ever developed a severe leak, at least we wouldn't lose all of our brakes.
The new master cylinder bolts...
The new master cylinder bolts in place of the old unit.
Because of the extra reservoir,...
Because of the extra reservoir, you'll need another line that will feed the rear (drum) brakes through an adjustable proportioning valve. Everything is included in the kit with instructions on how to hook up the lines.
Before bleeding the system,...
Before bleeding the system, bench-bleed the master cylinder. This ensures that the master cylinder is pumping only fluid and not air. Once the master is pumping only fluid, you can connect the lines and bleed the entire system.
Before bleeding the system,...
Before bleeding the system, bench-bleed the master cylinder. This ensures that the master cylinder is pumping only fluid and not air. Once the master is pumping only fluid, you can connect the lines and bleed the entire system.