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1979 Chevy Corvette - Shark Attack: L98 Engine Disassembly

Now that we've chosen our engine, it's time to start rebuilding it
By Chris Petris
Photography by Chris Petris
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We were bragging about how... 
   
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Corp 0506 Attack 01 Z
We were bragging about how the one-piece, rear-main-seal blocks don'tleak oil, and here's a leaking rear seal. The one-piece, rear-sealcrankshaft hub becomes distorted if the flywheel bolts aren't torquedproperly to 65 lb-ft. The flywheel had three really tight bolts; onebolt was torqued correctly and two bolts were finger tight.
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Once the intake was removed,... 
   
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Once the intake was removed, this crud was discovered above theroller-lifter guideplate. The same crud was found in a similar area onthe same side of the lifter valley. This is not from poor oilmaintenance. The block was seeping coolant from the coolant passages,where it mixed with the oil and created the sludge.
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This is more evidence of an... 
   
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This is more evidence of an engine that was running well and had a goodair/fuel ratio. The exhaust ports have a light tan color and the innerpart of the cylinder head is clean. The oil was changed regularly,keeping dirt and sludge out of the engine, or so it would seem.
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We cleaned the area with brake... 
   
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We cleaned the area with brake cleaner; the dark area is where thecoolant was seeping out. This area also shows a crack to the right ofthe dark area that should be marked so the machine shop can Magnafluxit. This area will be prone to cracking or porosity. Once the block iscleaned, the area can be welded or epoxied, depending on the severity ofthe damage.
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Disassembling an engine can... 
   
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Disassembling an engine can be interesting at times. This cylinder has atelltale sign of coolant leaking from the head gasket. The head gasketallows a minute amount of coolant to trickle down the cylinder, mostlikely during warm-up. The aluminum expansion rate is higher than thecast-iron block, causing the cylinder head to move around duringwarm-up.
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The connecting rod and cap... 
   
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The connecting rod and cap are numbered on the outside, so you can seeduring assembly that all of the numbers face out to prevent incorrectinstallation. Connecting rods are offset on the crankshaft end. If theconnecting rod is turned around, the upper part will be close to thepiston.
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Even though you may not be... 
   
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Even though you may not be reusing the crankshaft, avoid nicking orgouging it with the connecting-rod bolts during disassembly. Two piecesof 3/8 fuel hose will protect the crankshaft and guide the connectingrod out. You must avoid the crankshaft surface during assembly, as anick or scratch will chew up a new bearing immediately.
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This harmonic-balancer puller... 
   
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This harmonic-balancer puller is the only special tool you'll need todisassemble your engine. It's also used for steering-wheel removal. Mostdiscount automotive parts stores have the harmonicbalancer/steering-wheel puller for under $20. You don't need to buy ahigh-dollar puller for occasional use.
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Put the parts you plan to... 
   
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Corp 0506 Attack 09 Z
Put the parts you plan to replace in one area and the ones to be reusedin another. The parts to be replaced are in the pan on the left,allowing correct parts ordering. Do not discard the parts until they'rechecked for fit against the old ones. Clean the ones you'll reuse andput them back in the same pan.
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This photo shows a scratch... 
   
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Corp 0506 Attack 10 Z
This photo shows a scratch in the crankshaft and connecting-rod bearingwhere debris went through the oil. If you can feel the scratch with yourfingernail, the crankshaft should be ground. This crankshaft shouldclean up with a .010 cut on the journals. A deep gouge warrantscrankshaft replacement; this gives you an idea of condition withouthaving to use or purchase high-dollar tools.

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