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 Reinstall the intake bolts...  Reinstall the intake bolts with Teflon sealer. Be sure to torque down the bolts before the silicone cures, using the proper torque sequence.  Now the EGR valve and fuel-injector...  Now the EGR valve and fuel-injector rails can go back in place. Tighten the EGR valve but don't put in the bolts for the injector rails since you'll need to move them around a little to get the runners back into place. Also, using a little bit of lubricant such as oil or transmission assembly lube will help the O-rings slide into place without damage.  The runners were slid into...  The runners were slid into place, which was made easier by being able to move the injector rails.  There are different sizes...  There are different sizes of bolts for the intake, and each one has a specific use. There are six small bolts (two for the fuel-line mount and four for the EGR tube). The next size up are the seven bolts for the plenum to the runners; after that, there are two bolts for the passenger side in front of the runners and the driver side back of the runners. The two second-longest bolts bolt in from the inside for the runners (front passenger side and rear driver side), while the four longest bolts go in the lower center spot on each side of the runner.  This is the time to connect...  This is the time to connect the vacuum lines to the fuel-pressure regulator and the EGR valve. You can do it later if you forget, but it's much easier now.  Next, the distributor goes...  Next, the distributor goes back into place. This is where marking the position of the rotor and body of the distributor really pays off. Once installed, the wires and cap can be installed.  The plenum was reinstalled...  The plenum was reinstalled on the runners. Notice that the throttle body is not on the plenum. It will be inspected and cleaned before it goes back on.  We continued buckling up the...  We continued buckling up the front of the engine by installing the A/C compressor and belt.  Before installing the throttle...  Before installing the throttle body, we used some Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket sealer on the coolant lines to prevent any leaking. Then we bolted the throttle body in place using the proper gasket, and hooked up the required electrical connectors.  Once all was completed, we...  Once all was completed, we fired the engine and set the timing. Since we marked the distributor, it was close to right-on, but we used a timing light to make it perfect. GM recommends 6 degrees if initial timing for '85-'88 cars, but Chris sets them to 0-2 degrees. He says they run smoother and have better low-end torque. The '89 and newer L98s were designed to run with more timing. We also drained the oil and installed a new filter and oil.  Between the top and bottom...  Between the top and bottom bores of the throttle body, you can see the difference that cleaning the throttle body can make. Pay particular attention to the area around the idle circuit and EGR orifices where the buildup will be the most severe.  Coolant was next. When adding...  Coolant was next. When adding coolant, always check for leaks and be sure to close the drain at the bottom of the radiator.
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