If you want to perform engine modifications to your C5 Corvette beyond installing a different airbox or some exhaust system modifications, the engine will need to be removed. But pulling the engine on the C5 is a little different than what most enthusiasts are used to doing. That's because the best way to do it is to lift the body off the engine, torque tube, transmission, and front and rear suspension units that make up the "spine" of the C5 Corvette.
While the idea of doing this to your baby might sound much more daunting than "just" pulling the engine, removing the drivetrain unit is actually quite straightforward once you have seen it happen. Which is where this two-part story comes in: We are going to show you most of the steps required to complete this process.
As you can see, removing the...
As you can see, removing the engine on a C5 Corvette is really more like removing the entire drivetrain. Surprisingly, this process is a straightforward way to remove the engine from the vehicle. Once you've seen this process in detail, you'll understand why.
Where to Start
As always, whenever working on your vehicle, disconnect the battery cables first. this is especially important with this process as it involves removing the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the alternator, and most of the underhood electrical system. Handling any of these components or systems while powered could be dangerous on many fronts (to you and the components).
The first work to be performed is the removal of the shifter from the center console in the interior of the vehicle. It's a good idea to start with this step before the vehicle goes on the lift as the doors can safely be swung open (versus when the vehicle is on the lift and the lift legs are in the way of opening the doors). Simply put, getting the shifter out first means you won't have to get into the interior for the rest of the engine/drivetrain removal process.
Once the shifter is removed, the vehicle can be put on a two-post lift, and the drivetrain component and system removal process can happen. Many folks ask if a two-post lift is absolutely necessary, but after seeing the photos of how the drivetrain comes out of the vehicle, we doubt there will be too many questions. The factory puts the drivetrain in from under the vehicle, so if you want to do this process right, you'll gain access to a two-post lift and raise the body off the drivetrain to get at the engine.
Take a look at the photos and captions of this first half of the process and look for the rest of the story next month right here in CF.
01 Today's new vehicles often...
01 Today's new vehicles often have their drivetrains installed in the vehicles from below the body structure when originally built, and the C5 Corvette is no different. Because of this, the easiest way to remove the engine/drivetrain is by lifting the body off the drivetrain with a two-post, four-point lift.
02 To get the shifter unbolted...
02 To get the shifter unbolted from the interior, remove the two 10mm nuts that go on these studs. They are located underneath the trim bezel that contains the traction control button. To get to this area, you must remove the three Torx-15 screws holding the ashtray in place (not shown).
03 Using a radiator hook...
03 Using a radiator hook tool, carefully pull up on these fastener closeouts to access the 10mm nuts. These show "pry" damage easily, so be cautious as you pull up on them.
04 Remove the 10mm nuts that...
04 Remove the 10mm nuts that were under the closeouts.
05 Now you can pull up on...
05 Now you can pull up on the shifter boot and then place your hands on each side of the console and peel its edges out while pulling up. You need to peel the edges out to release the small tangs on the console. Carefully maneuver the plastic cover past the shifter arm and parking brake lever to gain access to the fasteners holding the shifter in place.
06 Remove the three Torx-40...
06 Remove the three Torx-40 bolts holding the shifter closeout plate in place.
07 Remove the four Torx-25...
07 Remove the four Torx-25 bolts holding the shifter on the transmission.
08 Now remove the shifter...
08 Now remove the shifter mechanism from the interior by wiggling it off the shaft at the rear of the shifter arm to release it. a tip: lock the transmission in neutral by pushing down on the little tang in the transmission opening.
09 The legs of the two-post...
09 The legs of the two-post lift should be placed in these locations on the bottom of your C5. Notice the wood blocks being used to shim the mounts off the body-these are required as the body on the C5 Corvette scoops under to the framerail.
A few companies manufacture...
A few companies manufacture lift blocks that nest in the C5 body structure lift holes (like SPX and Kent-Moore), or you can just use small pieces of 2x4 wood blocks like these to keep the lift legs from touching the body panels that wrap under the vehicle.
10 With the vehicle up on...
10 With the vehicle up on the four-point lift, remove the exhaust system tubing that runs down the center of the vehicle. This Vette has an aftermarket long-tube header exhaust system on it, but the stock components remove in similar fashion-unbolt them and pull off vehicle.
11 Move to the rear of the...
11 Move to the rear of the vehicle to remove the two frame mounts on the rear sway bar to allow the sway bar to swing down. This makes room to slide the rear section of the exhaust out from under the vehicle (once it has been unbolted from its hangers).
12 Move back to the center...
12 Move back to the center of the vehicle to remove the many bolts that hold the chassis stiffener plate in place. It might help to have an electric or pneumatic driver to get these off as there are a lot of them. Lower the plate out of the vehicle and store.
13 The brake lines that run...
13 The brake lines that run down the drivetrain tunnel to the rear calipers need to be unclipped from the side of the tunnel. This is to free them from the body/frame assembly as they will come out with the drivetrain. Be careful here as the lock tabs on the clips can get brittle from the exhaust heat and break easily. If you do break them, they can either be replaced or the brake lines simply placed back in the clips without the "lock" tab on the clip.
14 One of the more tricky...
14 One of the more tricky portions of the drivetrain removal is the separation of the clutch hydraulic line dry-break connection. This is best accomplished with a radiator hook tool and pliers to push the plastic ring into the connector body to release the small tangs inside. Take your time here as the lip of the plastic ring often becomes brittle from the exhaust heat and will break off easily.
15 At the rear of the vehicle,...
15 At the rear of the vehicle, disconnect the anti-lock braking (ABS) electrical connector on the driver-side rear lower A-arm by lifting the locking tang and pulling the male and female connectors apart.
16 Using a 22mm socket, remove...
16 Using a 22mm socket, remove the two bolts holding each of the rear calipers on its upright and hang the caliper on the lower A-arm with a small piece of wire. With a tall jackstand holding the lower A-arm just below it's fully supported height, loosen the lower ball joint (using an 18mm socket) until the spring force releases the ball joint from the upright.
About the Author Will Handzel...
About the Author
Will Handzel has written the benchmark book on the LS1 V-8 engine, How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s, for all LS1 enthusiasts to get more from their Gen III and IV V-8 powerplants. The book documents the fascinating inside-GM history of the LS1/LS6 architecture creation and how to achieve various power levels with performance buildups of the engine.
To order the book, of which this story is an excerpt, go to www.cartechbooks.com or call (800) 551-4754.