4: The screws that retain the headliner at the front are a machine thread and a specific
The '86-'96 convertible tops are cut to fit, sewn, and are ready to install without any staples. You'll need an assistant to make things easier during the install. Brute strength is not really required, but that extra assistant allows more finesse for positioning the material correctly. The really labor intensive work begins after the old top is removed. The old adhesives take a while to remove properly, and, in some cases, convertible-top frame work is required.
Unfortunately, the top's frame condition is always kept under wraps until the headliner is removed and the top is off. Don't be surprised to see corrosion at the rear bow. When I was working on my own '90 convertible, I found severe corrosion that required a new rear-bow section on the left side. Unfortunately at the time, none were available from GM. A quick call to C&S Corvettes in Sarasota, Florida, yielded a like-new rear-bow section from another crashed convertible. It was a lucky find as you sometimes will have to pay for the entire top frame to get that one piece. In cases like that, you must rely on your friends and be diligent in your search, and it usually pays off.
If corrosion is found once the top is removed, the aluminum must be primed with an etch primer to allow the top coat to stick properly when painted. If we find any untreated aluminum areas, we always give them a touch of primer to help prevent future corrosion before the new top goes on.
The old top comes off in about an hour or two; then many hours can be spent cleaning things up, and depending on how careful you are, days can go by. Once you're finished cleaning and prepping the frame, you can figure on six to eight hours to install the new top. Once you have a few top installs under your belt, the entire job can be done easily in seven to eight hours, depending on the top-frame condition.
5: The headliner is now captured over the bow with the plastic strip. Our plastic weather
Proper fit and placement are required to begin the installation, along with careful adhesive use. We always use 3M black weatherstrip adhesive to blend in with the top material, placing a 1/4-inch bead in the center of the area to be glued. The adhesive is applied to the frame; the top material is put in place; and then the material is pulled away so the adhesive can air dry. This typically takes three to five minutes in 85-degree weather. Colder temperatures require additional air drying time. If you happen to mislay the convertible top material, you should be able to pull the material back and reapply the adhesive at least once. Too much adhesive can be a real pain as it becomes soft and gooey, allowing the top material to slide around, and it can take days to dry. If you have to reposition the material more than once, the best policy is to remove the original adhesive and reapply fresh adhesive. Adhesives can be cleaned off with Xylene, but brake cleaner is recommended for this job because it doesn't leave any residue. Avoiding a spill or excessive glue is the best policy, but things happen, so keep the solvents nearby and ready for action if necessary. Procrastination during this part of the install can be costly because as the adhesive dries, it gets tougher to remove. Remember to move quickly.
Keep a camera handy to record the disassembly process for some added reassurance. Hopefully, the photos in this article and your own will make the install as painless as possible.
6: The front horizontal and rear vertical weatherstrip and their retainers must be remove
7: We've safely removed the weatherstrip, thus revealing the plastic pushpin at the rear
8: The convertible-top material and weatherstrip at the front bow covers the cables used