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 6: Here's an added twist...  6: Here's an added twist to the '94-'96 door reinforcement plate removal. A TORX head screw was added to the outside of the door panel for the door-lock actuator. Be sure to remove the screw before attempting to remove the panel.  7: The panel doesn't necessarily...  7: The panel doesn't necessarily need to come out fully, but the job is much easier if it's not fighting you the whole way. We usually disconnect the wires and push the plate down, then pull it out at the top. Once it's out at the top, it can be pulled up and let hang out of the way while you are doing the repairs.  8: Here's our broken guide/upper-limit...  8: Here's our broken guide/upper-limit stop ready for removal. There are three aggravating things to deal with here: a thread locker was used to keep it in place; plus a flat nut with two holes hold it from the backside; and if that wasn't enough, the piece is bolted through the glass. We use a pair of 90-degree snap-ring retaining pliers to hold the nut from the backside during removal.  9: Once the new guide is...  9: Once the new guide is installed, the problems should be solved. With any luck, this is what you'll see when you're done, not a pile of glass at the bottom of the door. If you had an unexplained side-window glass breakage, see if you can find the old guide/upper-limit stop. Most likely you will find it has been broken.  10: If necessary, these large...  10: If necessary, these large washer nuts adjust the window up and down on the regulator at the rear of the glass. Make minor adjustments and make sure to mark where the nuts were originally, especially if this is your first time adjusting the windows position. Once the guide/upper-limit stop is replaced, the window should be in the correct position.  11: Minor issues make big...  11: Minor issues make big statements. It bugs me to see the manual door-lock knob pulled away from the door panel, plus it rattles when it sticks way out. Here we're adjusting the door-lock rod to its correct position at the front. Almost every lock rod can use a little tweak to get it back where it belongs.  12: We're applying a bead...  12: We're applying a bead of 3M strip caulk to seal the insulation panel to the door frame. Using a new strip caulk ensures that the insulation panel will be in the correct position to do its job properly. The original strip caulk comes off easily with mineral spirits and a cloth.  13: Now we'll put the insulator...  13: Now we'll put the insulator in place starting at the center. Make sure you pull the manual lock rod and wiring through the insulator. Remember that the panel insulates the door from water, wind, and heat, so take your time and seal it well to the door frame.  14: We then reinstalled the...  14: We then reinstalled the door panel by reversing the steps of disassembly. This photo shows how to properly install the manual door-lock rod without damaging the rod. The small screwdriver is used to place the manual lock rod above the door-panel plate, allowing the rod to slip over and into the plate. If care isn't taken, the rod can be bent. Job done!
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