OK, we're back, and we're pretty well into the project. The ducting is installed, as is the condenser and drier, and we just finished mounting the compressor and belt. Now it's time to finish the plumbing and electrical connections, charge the system, and-hopefully-enjoy some nice, cool air in the cabin of this '67 big-block bad boy. Let's get right to it.
| DIFFICULTY INDEX ::: NNN |
ANYONE'S PROJECT | no tools required | N | | BEGINNER | basic tools | NN |
| EXPERIENCED | special tools | NNN |
| ACCOMPLISHED | special tools and outside help | NNNN |
| PROFESSIONALS ONLY | send this work out | NNNNN |
Back inside the passenger...
Back inside the passenger compartment, it's time to finalize the electrical connections. This lavender wire is the key-on power lead that connects to a 5-amp fused source-in this case, the radio fuse.
Here's how the controls operate:
The system is off, with both knobs pushed in and the fan speed switch (left knob) rotated to the full counter-clockwise position.
For A/C, both knobs are pushed in, and the fan speed switch is rotated clockwise to low, medium, or high positions.
For heat, the left knob is pulled out, and the fan speed switch is rotated clockwise for low, medium, or high positions.
For defrost, the left knob is pulled out, and the fan speed switch is rotated for low, medium, or high speeds. The heat/defrost knob (right side) is pulled out as well.
The thermostat control (under the dash on the passenger side) controls the overall output temperature of the system.
Well, that wraps it up. If you have a midyear and you want the comforts of air conditioning that looks like a factory installation, check out the kits from Vintage Air.
All of the white leads (three...
All of the white leads (three in total) on the Vintage Air harnesses are grounds. We discover that one of the windshield wiper mounting lugs to be a good ground point.
A second ground is also attached...
A second ground is also attached to the wiper lug. The third ground, coming from the blower-motor control switch, must be attached to the dashboard crossmember since the length of the wire is too short to use the wiper lug.
The lead from the A/C microswitch...
The lead from the A/C microswitch connects to the binary-type compressor safety switch. This connection is important, since it prevents the compressor from engaging or disengages it in the event of extreme low pressure (refrigerant loss) or excessively high head pressure (380 pounds), to prevent compressor damage or hose rupture. The A/C system relies on refrigerant to carry lubrication through the system.
Here's a shot of the compressor...
Here's a shot of the compressor with all hoses attached and electrical connections made under the hood. The system is evacuated and charged using the red- and black-capped valves on the engine side of the compressor.
We'll use the existing OEM...
We'll use the existing OEM fan control switch. The first step is to remove the knob's set screw using a 5/64-inch Allen wrench.
Use a spanner wrench to remove...
Use a spanner wrench to remove the control retaining nut. If you don't have a spanner this size, a pair of needle-nose pliers will suffice.
Reach up behind the dash from...
Reach up behind the dash from the driver side, and pull the control switch and cable free. The duct hoses are also visible in this shot.
This is the control switch...
This is the control switch with the new harness wiring in place prior to reinstalling it back in the dash.
Here's a view of the passenger-side...
Here's a view of the passenger-side glovebox cavity. The two black rectangular boxes with the wiring harnesses attached are relays for the system; one is the power relay (with the heavy red wire) and the other is the high blower relay. Note the third white ground wire connected to the center portion of the dash crossmember. The A/C thermostat switch is located just below the crossmember, behind the VIN plate, within convenient reach. Though it looks (and is) pretty busy in here, the glovebox still mounts without a problem.
The heavy red lead from the...
The heavy red lead from the power relay is connected to a 30-amp circuit breaker, shown here. The eyelet end of the wires can be connected to the positive battery terminal or to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid (we opted for the solenoid terminal).
The circuit breaker is secured...
The circuit breaker is secured to the lower part of the firewall with two short self-tapping screws after connecting it to the positive side of the starter solenoid. Cable ties are used throughout the installation to keep both the wiring and hoses tidy.
The metal fittings of the...
The metal fittings of the suction line at the evaporator and the expansion valve are wrapped with insulating press tape. This stuff is sticky; moistening your fingers with dishwashing liquid makes handling it a bit easier.
The hose cover is secured...
The hose cover is secured to the firewall using the supplied nuts and bolts in the original OEM holes that previously retained the heater-box cover.
A suction pump is used to...
A suction pump is used to evacuate the system for 35-45 minutes, at a temperature of at least 85 degrees. On a cooler day, the components can be heated with a hair dryer or by running the engine with the heater on before evacuating.
We pulled and maintained a...
We pulled and maintained a vacuum of -28 pounds for a half hour to check for leaks. When we were satisfied the system was tight and leakproof, we charged the system with 1.8 pounds (28.8 ounces) of 134a refrigerant, using a digital scale to get the weight exact.
Here's the completed installation,...
Here's the completed installation, all charged and ready to enjoy.
The proof is in the pudding...
The proof is in the pudding and, as this digital thermometer shows, the pudding is comfortably chilled at 57.9 degrees. The reading was taken from the driver's console vent while idling. At higher revs the temperature gets a couple of degrees colder.