Project 1 - Alternator Detailing/Replacement
Applicable Years: C2, C3
Skill Level: 2 Wrenches
Tools required: Sockets, ratchet, wrenches, screwdriver, wire brush or steel wool, magnet (optional), prybar, black spray paint
Time required: 1-2 hours
Parts source: Mid America Motorworks
Cast-aluminum parts such as alternator housings oxidize and become dull over time, particularly in damp or humid environments. If allowed to progress, this oxidation eventually causes pitting in the metal, too. Removing the oxidation and restoring the original patina of the cast-aluminum alternator housing isn't difficult, but it's much easier to do if you remove the alternator from the engine first. If your alternator needs replacing, these procedures are identical for that chore as well. However, if you're doing a replacement, you might want to consider a nice chrome-plated high-output alternator such as those offered by Mid America Motorworks. Whether you're detailing or replacing your alternator, here's what to do.
As always when working on...
As always when working on your Corvette's electrical components, disconnect the negative lead from the battery first to prevent any potential shocks or component damage. Then disconnect the positive and ground wires from the alternator, and pull the harness clip off as well.
Remove the upper bolt that...
Remove the upper bolt that holds the alternator in place on the bracket, and push the alternator toward the engine so you have enough slack to remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
My alternator mounting brackets...
My alternator mounting brackets were in pretty sorry shape, so I decided to remove them. Use a socket to remove the two bolts that hold the lower bracket to the engine block. When these are out you can remove the alternator with the lower bracket attached.
On the workbench, remove the...
On the workbench, remove the long pivot bolt that holds the alternator to the bracket, and then use a flat-blade screwdriver or a small prybar to persuade the bracket off the alternator.
Rub the alternator vigorously...
Rub the alternator vigorously with a wire brush or some coarse steel wool to remove the oxidation and restore the patina to the cast aluminum.
Use a small magnet to pick...
Use a small magnet to pick up any stray wire-brush bristles or steel-wool particles that may be sticking to the alternator to prevent them from entering the inside of the unit. These will already be sticking to any ferrous parts of the alternator (e.g., pulley fan, housing bolts) since they're already magnetized.
Inspect the alternator, and...
Inspect the alternator, and use the brush or steel wool to touch up any spots you missed. If you're going to do it, then do it right.
Use the wire brush and/or...
Use the wire brush and/or steel wool to remove any loose rust on the brackets before giving them a couple coats of black paint. I like Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator black for such jobs, since it acts as a primer, rust inhibitor, and finish coat all in one.
Again, it makes no sense to...
Again, it makes no sense to use rusty hardware to mount nicely cleaned and freshly painted parts, so I used stainless fasteners.
Bolt the alternator back onto...
Bolt the alternator back onto the bracket and then bolt the bracket onto the block (alternatively, you may find it easier to bolt the bracket to the block first, then attach the alternator to it; do whichever is easier for you). Bolt the top alternator bracket to the block, then slip the belt over the alternator pulley and use a prybar to put tension on it while you tighten the top alternator bolt onto the bracket. I used a broomstick under my armpit to add tension while both hands were occupied tightening the top bolt. Think outside the box.
Here's the completed alternator...
Here's the completed alternator and brackets looking all nice and spiffy. All that remains to be done is to reattach the clip, wires and reconnect the battery cable--then the rest of the engine bay needs my attention.