This is the location of the...
This is the location of the two splash shield bolts that are shrouded by the oil filter. The other side of the splash shield is held in place by the three starter motor bolts, which must be removed since they hold the bell housing to the engine block. Since the battery positive cable connects directly to the starter solenoid, it's important to disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery before starting the job. Also, note that the battery ground cable connects to one of the starter bolts. Be sure to re-install it upon reassembly.
The engineers at S.P.E.C. have helped put together a very user-friendly buyer's guide on their web site, along with detailed descriptions of their various stages of clutch design. In simple terms, if your engine is stock or near-stock, you can easily select the right clutch based on the data in the web site. If your engine is modified, or if you have questions on selecting the best unit for your usage, S.P.E.C. has a team of engineers available to walk you through the selection process in choosing the right unit for your needs, and they welcome the opportunity to discuss individual customers' needs.
For the record, they recommended their Stage 2 clutch kit for our C1 installation, and we couldn't be happier with the results. Engagement is smooth and secure, and pedal pressure actually seems lighter than stock, which they confirm with their test bench results. Plus, the unit they supplied us featured an optional aluminum pressure plate housing (with steel friction surface, of course), resulting in a saving of about 6 pounds of rotating mass. The result is quicker throttle response and faster engine spool-up.
Finally, as they say, reinstallation of the trans, shifter, and drive shaft is the reverse of disassembly. Two cautions: 1: When reinstalling the transmission be certain the input shaft engages the disc splines and also the pilot bushing; do not try to draw the transmission the last inch to the bell housing by tightening the trans bolts, and do not let the trans hang on the splines of the clutch disc. And 2: adjust the length of the threaded clutch fork push rod to achieve 1-2 inches of free play at the top of the pedal and clutch engagement at about one third of the way up. This will assure that the clutch fully disengages for shifting, and will also assure that the throwout bearing is not contacting the pressure plate fingers when the pedal is at the top of its travel.
The old clutch shows clear...
The old clutch shows clear signs that it's been slipping, including scoring and discoloration of the pressure plate.
The friction material on the...
The friction material on the old clutch disc is worn almost down to the rivet heads, so it was clearly due for replacement.
The pilot bushing is a simple...
The pilot bushing is a simple cylindrical piece of bronze-type metal. Note the slight chamfer on the inside diameter of one end. This chamfer must face the rear of the car, and is provided to help funnel the transmission input shaft into the bushing during reassembly.
The old pilot bushing can...
The old pilot bushing can be removed with a slide hammer-type tool, often available for loan or rent from local parts stores. But if one isn't available you can improvise with a drift, steel rod or, ideally, an old transmission input shaft. The trick is to fill the entire cavity behind the pilot bushing with grease, then hammer your steel rod through the pilot bushing and into the grease. The hydraulic pressure generated will push the pilot bushing out. You may have to stop and add grease several times in order to fill the void left by the exiting bushing, but you'll be amazed how well this trick works!
The new pilot bushing installs...
The new pilot bushing installs (beveled side out, remember...) with a hammer and drift or socket of the appropriate size. Drive it in until it bottoms out, and test-fit the transmission input shaft or clutch alignment tool into the bushing to be sure you haven't mushroomed it in during installation.
This is what a freshly-machined...
This is what a freshly-machined flywheel should look like (flywheel shown is from another Chevrolet).
The friction characteristics...
The friction characteristics of the Kevlar clutch facing material lends itself to a "segmented" design rather than a continuous friction surface, while providing smooth engagement and positive clamping force.
It's best to clean the new...
It's best to clean the new pressure plate and the newly-machined flywheel with brake parts cleaner in order to remove any preservative or solvent that may remain.
Use the alignment tool supplied...
Use the alignment tool supplied in the clutch kit to hold the disc in place during installation. Our S.P.E.C. disc is clearly labeled "TRANS SIDE" and "FLYWHEEL SIDE" to make sure it's installed properly. When bolting the pressure plate into place, carefully wiggle the alignment tool and clutch disc to assure that the disc is perfectly centered. Then, after torquing the pressure plate bolts, test-fit the alignment tool one last time to assure that it slides smoothly through the splines and into the pilot bushing.
The spring clips on the clutch...
The spring clips on the clutch fork are notoriously fragile, and can be easily broken if you allow the transmission input shaft to rest on the bearing and fork during disassembly or reassembly. Replacement clutch forks are readily available from CF advertisers.
First-timers may be unsure...
First-timers may be unsure of the exact positioning of the new throwout bearing, since it can be installed in one of two ways. This way is incorrect!
This is the correct positioning...
This is the correct positioning of the bearing in the fork.
A little white grease on the...
A little white grease on the pivot ball will provide for smooth, squeak-free operation of the clutch fork.
This is the splash shield...
This is the splash shield mentioned earlier.
It's a good idea to check...
It's a good idea to check the level of the oil in the transmission while it's out and accessible. With the trans flat on a level floor, the oil should just come up to the fill hole. Recommended lube is SAE 80-90 gear oil. This is also a good time to look carefully at the rubber mount that connects the transmission to its cross-member. Most are well past their prime and due for replacement.