C3 Corvette Seat Reupholstery - Gimme Some Skin

Install the foam onto the seat cover while guiding the wires through their holes in the foam. Then pliers can be used to grasp the mechanics wire and pull each clip out through the compressed foam to enable the "wave" rod to be slid through the clip's end.

The pressure and friction on the rod increases with each additional clip it goes through. Vise grips proved useful to pull the rod through the last clips. Installing the foam to the seat covers was the most tedious part of the job. The sidebar shows a new option that allows this part of the job to be skipped.

If the seat frame ribbon springs are loose, tighten each loop by squeezing it close to its radius. After 300,000 miles, these springs were stretched and were rattling loose in the frames. After a few minutes they were tight and firm again. (Plus my grip was stronger for hand shakes.)

Cut and featheredge the foam away from the hinge bolts if you don't want the leather or vinyl to rub against the metal hinge. Tip: to further prevent scuffing of leather when seat hinge moves, cut large plastic washers and insert these with 5/16-inch flat washers to shim the hinge away from the upholstery.

Slide the wider side of the spring clips over the lower edge of the seat cover, with the clip's smaller gap on the inside. Then compress the foam and fold the edge of the seat cover down over the edge of the seat frame. If the foam is new, you may be in for some wrestling.

Press the rods against the seat springs and fasten with hog rings. Tip: place towels or carpet on the work surface to help prevent scratches or tears in the new covers.

The major work on the bottom cushion is complete. It's now plain to see how the rods and clips pull the seat covers into the foam to give it a sculpted look. They look so good, it's tempting to stop and admire them. But two minor steps are needed to complete the bottom assemblies.

Carefully mark and cut the holes for the seat back release and the bumper stops. First, use an ice pick inserted from below through the frame weld nuts. Then use a screwdriver to better locate the proper position and an X-acto knife to cut in the right direction.

Note that the release has a little sideways adjustment. Also, a thin piece of plastic is under the bracket to protect the upholstery. The bumper stops also utilize a plastic washer where they contact the upholstery.

Washers can be installed on top of the seat frame to shim the stops upward. This moves the seat back to a more vertical position and thereby can keep the seat back from hitting the deck lid.

The procedures for installing covers and foam on the seat backs are similar to those used on the bottom cushions, with a couple of notable differences. Foam for the 1973 seat back had an additional piece located behind the frame at the top. Trimming was required where the two pieces abutted and also at the locations of the latch assembly and shoulder harness guide.

To prevent any unsightly bulges, it was necessary to trim the foam and then slide the seat covers over the foam and frame a few times to see the result. Tip: Sprinkle baby powder on the insides of the covers to help them slide on. Also warm the covers with a heat gun or hair dryer or place them in the sun to make them more pliable.