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Corvette Weekend Projects 2010It's time to head out to the garage again and get started on some projects From the April, 2010 issue of Corvette Fever By Tom Benford Photography by Tom Benford
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Over the winter months, many folks get cabin fever-the all-but-unbearable feeling of being cooped up inside and not being able to travel or go about your business freely due to temperature and/or weather constraints. But not me-no, sir. Instead, I get Corvette fever-the all-but-unbearable feeling of not being able to open the hood up or get underneath my Corvette(s) to get my hands-on garage time in. To while away those long winter hours, I think of things that need to be done to my rides or projects I want to do to improve them or personalize them in some way. And, inevitably, by the time that Spring thaw rolls around, I have a pretty long laundry list of things to do. Another winter-time activity of mine is getting my tools, gear, and equipment ready for work as soon as the weather breaks. That usually entails making sure all my sockets are properly sorted and in their respective places in trays or holders; I've found that there are precious few things more annoying or frustrating than needing a certain tool-a socket, for instance-and not finding it where it's supposed to be. And unless you share your tools with somebody else, there's nobody else to blame for this but yourself for not putting it back where it belongs when you last finished using it. I always like to give my wrenches, sockets, ratchets, and extensions a good wipe-down with a shop rag while I'm at it to remove any grease, grime, or gunk that may be on them, although I'm usually pretty good about cleaning my tools after each project before stowing them. I frequently use air tools, so lubricating them with air tool oil is another good "keep-busy" winter task, as well as organizing all those essential garage chemicals like carb and choke cleaner, WD-40, naptha, denatured alcohol, and such. I also have a "utility tray" that contains other essentials like nitrile gloves, a utility knife, safety glasses, shop rags, an LED flashlight, ink marker, tape measure, and other indispensable miscellaneous implements that I know I'll usually need at some point during various projects. So, after all these months of getting everything ready, I can't wait to jump right in and begin. So, let's do just that right now!
| Wrench Difficulty Index |
| Anyone’s Project: no tools required | 1 Wrench |
| Beginner: basic tools | 2 Wrenches |
| Experienced: special tools | 3 Wrenches |
| Accomplished: special tools and outside help | 4 Wrenches |
| Professionals Only: send this work out | 5 Wrenches | Project 1: Radiator Replacement
Applicable Years: C3
Skill level: 2 Wrenches
Tools required: sockets, ratchet, wrenches, catch basin, screwdrivers, pliers
Time required: 4-5 hours
Parts source: DeWitts Reproductions Some of the radiator seams on my '76 Shark were starting to show tell-tale stains from dried antifreeze in a couple of spots, telling me this radiator was ready to pop the next time I had to sit in traffic on a 90-degree day. Owing to some engine performance work, it runs a bit on the warm side, so I decided to replace the stock radiator with an all-aluminum racing unit from DeWitt's Reproductions. Since this car also has factory air, there were a couple of extra steps you won't have to perform on a non-A/C car. Either way, it's not terribly difficult, but it is a bit involved and will take up the better part of a Saturday when you do it.  Open the petcock on the bottom...  Open the petcock on the bottom of the radiator to drain all of the engine coolant. While you can use a clean container to catch the liquid for reuse later, I decided to put nice fresh antifreeze in the brand-new radiator after the installation. CAUTION: antifreeze is sweet tasting and highly toxic to pets if ingested, so be careful not to let any drip onto your garage floor or driveway if you have cats or dogs in your household.  Normally, you would remove...  Normally, you would remove the hood at this point to make removal of the shroud and radiator easier; however, this car has a Monza tilt-nose on it. If your Shark is "normal," remove the bolts that secure the hood to the hinges and have a helper assist you in removing the hood. Then remove the four bolts holding the fan to the water pump. After bolt removal, the fan can be lifted off the shaft.  The shroud retaining brackets...  The shroud retaining brackets are the next items to be taken off by removing the three bolts that retain each bracket.  Loosen the hose clamps on...  Loosen the hose clamps on both the upper and lower radiator hoses and pull the hoses off. Once the hoses are disconnected, the shroud can be lifted out. While one person can remove the shroud, it is much easier if you have a helper to work the opposite side, since you'll have to "walk" it up and around obstructions such as the water pump shaft to get it out of the engine compartment.  The radiator mount support...  The radiator mount support bracket bolts are removed next, one on each side of the support.  If your car has an air conditioning...  If your car has an air conditioning condenser and/or a trans cooler, the nylon retainer locks on the fin pass-thru retainers should be removed at this point by pulling on them while twisting gently. Obviously, if you don't have these gizmos, this step doesn't apply.  The bolts that hold the upper...  The bolts that hold the upper radiator mounting brackets are removed next.  Once the bolts are out, the...  Once the bolts are out, the upper mount brackets can be removed by pulling up on them.  The overflow hose clamp can...  The overflow hose clamp can be moved back an inch or two so the overflow hose can be pulled free of the radiator.  The fitting for the upper...  The fitting for the upper trans cooler line should now be loosened so the line can be detached from the radiator. The lower trans cooler hose can also be detached after the hose clamp is loosened. Be sure to have a bolt slightly larger than the inner hose diameter handy to insert into the lower trans hose as soon as you pull it free to prevent unnecessary loss of trans fluid.  At this point you can lift...  At this point you can lift the radiator out. Again, having a helper to lift the radiator from the opposite side of the car makes the job considerably easier. Here's what it looks like with the radiator out of the car.  You'll have to recycle the...  You'll have to recycle the fitting for the lower trans cooler line from the old radiator, since the new one won't have a fitting installed or supplied.  Here's a shot of the spiffy...  Here's a shot of the spiffy new aluminum racing radiator from DeWitt's Reproductions just prior to installing it. Since aluminum has a much better thermal coefficient (ability to transfer and dissipate heat) than brass/copper units like the one I just took out of the car, I expect my hot 350 to run considerably cooler now.  A little Permatex gasket sealer...  A little Permatex gasket sealer on the threads of the lower trans cooler fitting helps to ensure a leak-proof installation.  I decided not to run the fin...  I decided not to run the fin pass-thru retainers for the trans oil cooler through the fins of the new radiator, opting instead to secure the cooler solely through the fins of the A/C condenser; the nylon retainer locks were reinstalled on the pass-thru retainers at this point.  A pair of side-cutters was...  A pair of side-cutters was used to remove the excess length of the pass-thru retainers.  After carefully lowering the...  After carefully lowering the new radiator in place on the lower mounts, reattach the upper mounting brackets on both sides to secure the radiator.  Put a little gasket sealer...  Put a little gasket sealer on the threads of the upper trans cooler fitting before inserting and tightening it in the new radiator.  Install and secure the shroud...  Install and secure the shroud next. While I had help removing the shroud, my helper had to leave so reinstalling it was a solo act. To make life easier, I removed the water pump so I didn't have to wrestle with the shroud too much-a precaution on my part to safeguard the fins of the new radiator from shroud damage. Here's what it looked like with the shroud reinstalled and brackets secured. Reinstall the side radiator mounting bracket bolts, hoses, and the fan and fill the new radiator to complete the project. One final tip: Be sure the petcock on the new radiator is fully closed (petcock distended) before you start to fill the radiator. To prevent petcock breakage during shipment, these are usually in the fully-opened (flush with the bottom of the radiator) position. Project 2: Thermostat & Housing Replacement
Applicable Years: C1, C2, C3
Skill level: 1 Wrench
Tools required: sockets, ratchet, razor scraper, screwdriver
Time required: 1 hour
Parts source: Paragon Reproductions The thermostat housing on my '67 big-block was looking a bit shoddy, and the old warhorse has a tendency to run hot in summer traffic, so I thought it would be a good idea to replace the stock thermostat with a 160-degree unit when I put a new housing on the engine. This is an easy project that will help your engine to run cooler and make the engine look nicer-especially if you're doing some additional cleanup and detailing while you're at it, as I did.  Drain enough coolant from...  Drain enough coolant from the radiator so that the level is lower than the thermostat, then use a ratchet and 9/16-inch socket to remove the two bolts that hold the housing onto the intake manifold.  Lift the housing off, use...  Lift the housing off, use a screwdriver to loosen the clamps, and pull the hoses off it. You can also lift the thermostat out of the manifold at this time.  The new parts with the old...  The new parts with the old ones above them. Only one gasket is required and will be used, although there are two in the picture.  Here's the old thermostat...  Here's the old thermostat housing. If you have nothing else to do with an afternoon, you can use a Dremel and a wire brush to clean off all the crud and corrosion; or, you can simply replace it as we're doing here.  Use a razor scraper to clean...  Use a razor scraper to clean off any gasket material, loose rust, or other debris on the manifold, as this stuff will impair a water-tight seal for the housing.  Here's the manifold after...  Here's the manifold after cleaning it up a bit. It's also a good idea to retrieve any debris that may have fallen into the opening, as this can clog the thermostat and you really don't want any of this garbage circulating through your radiator, water pump, or the rest of your cooling system.  Rust never sleeps, so this...  Rust never sleeps, so this is a good time to paint over any exposed metal on the manifold before you put the housing back on. I cut down an empty spring water bottle, sprayed some "Chevy orange" into it, and used a small disposable brush for such touch-ups. Nitrile gloves are also a good idea to keep paint off your hands.  It doesn't make too much sense...  It doesn't make too much sense to use rusty bolts to secure a nice new housing, now does it? I decided that stainless bolts and washers were the best way to go, in keeping with the rest of the stainless I used on the manifold in another project.  This is a final look at the...  This is a final look at the old and new pieces as a reminder of why I'm replacing this housing. The old part is perfectly serviceable, however, and can be cleaned up (this would make a good indoor winter weekend project) or can be sold to someone looking for a bargain on eBay.  The gasket has a peel-off...  The gasket has a peel-off backing so it will adhere to the housing and stay in place without any sealant. Permatex will be used for the other side, however.  Permatex is smeared around...  Permatex is smeared around the edge of the housing to ensure a water-tight seal when it mates with the manifold. All that remains to be done is to insert the new thermostat, put the housing on the manifold, bolt it down, and reattach the hoses.  Voila! Quite a difference,...  Voila! Quite a difference, no? It not only looks better, it should run cooler now as well, so what's not to love? Project 3: Retro Fuel Rail Covers
Applicable Years: C5
Skill level: 1 Wrench
Tools required: none
Time required: 15 minutes
Parts source: Advanced Automotive Technologies If you have a C5 and you'd like to get a little of that "retro look" under the hood to remind onlookers of your Corvette's 50-plus-year heritage, then these fuel rail covers from Advanced Automotive Technologies are your ticket. Made of the same composite material as the stock factory covers, these units are molded and painted to be reminiscent of the old finned valve covers from the '50s and '60s. Installation is a snap-literally-since no tools are needed and in well under a half-hour you can give your modern-era C5 a real nostalgic, classic look.  Here's the engine bay with...  Here's the engine bay with the stock fuel rail covers in place. The first thing to do is to remove the oil filler cap.  The covers are held in place...  The covers are held in place by clips, so to remove them you simply pull up on the upper side of the cover first, then pull up on the bottom to unsnap the clips and remove the covers. The driver side is a little more tricky because of the braided hoses going through the cover.  Here's what the passenger...  Here's what the passenger side looks like with the cover removed.  The retro covers install just...  The retro covers install just the way the stock covers, by snapping in place. Snap the bottoms in first, then the tops. Be careful on the driver side so the braided hoses don't scratch the paint on the retro cover.  Here's the completed vintage...  Here's the completed vintage look on the passenger side-now on to the driver side and the job is complete! Project 4: Door Sill Panel Mount Hole Repair
Applicable Years: C2, C3
Skill level: 1 Wrench
Tools required: rivet nut thread setter kit with inserts, drill, screwdriver
Time required: 1/2-1 hour
Parts source: The Eastwood Company When redoing a Midyear or Shark interior, it's not uncommon to find bad sill panel mounting holes when you take the old panels off; this can be caused by rusting, the old screws not coming out and requiring drilling or just having stripped threads. Regardless of the cause, you'll have to repair the holes before you can properly install new sill panels, and inserting new thread inserts is an excellent solution. Here's how to do it.  A rivet nut thread setting...  A rivet nut thread setting kit like this one from The Eastwood Company is just the ticket for this and other repairs to your Corvette with stripped screw holes are encountered. You'll also need a drill and the appropriate-sized bit for the thread insert you intend to install. You can determine the right size insert by finding the one(s) that have the same thread as the screw you intend to use.  Using the correct size bit,...  Using the correct size bit, drill a hole for the insert to go into.  Put the insert in the insertion...  Put the insert in the insertion tool using the right size collet (follow the instructions supplied with the tool) and insert it into the hole you drilled. While pushing down on the tool, squeeze the handle to set the insert in place. The whole scheme is very similar to setting a pop rivet.  Here's the sill of a Midyear...  Here's the sill of a Midyear with inserts in two of the holes. Be sure to clean up any stray metal particles created by drilling before you install the new sill panels.  And all that's left to do...  And all that's left to do is install the new sill panel, securing it with screws in the newly-threaded holes you just fixed. Project 5: Air Filter Cleaning
Applicable Years: C5 or any year using a non-disposable filter
Skill level: 1 Wrench
Tools required: compressed air/blower nozzle, stiff brush, screwdriver
Time required: 1 hour
Parts source: SLP Performance Parts I have an SLP Blackwing Cold Air Induction system on my C5, and after many miles and several months, it was time to clean the filter, so I got a cleaning/servicing kit from SLP to do the job. It takes less than an hour and you don't need any tools other than a brush, some air pressure, and a screwdriver.  The filter "revitalizer" kit...  The filter "revitalizer" kit consists of a bottle of air filter cleaner and an aerosol can of oil.  After removing the filter...  After removing the filter from the C5 by loosening the hose clamp with a screwdriver and unplugging the MAF pigtail connector, use a stiff-bristle brush to brush off any loose dirt (or dog hair, as in this case).  Use a blower nozzle on your...  Use a blower nozzle on your compressor hose or a can of aerosol dust remover to blow off any remaining dust between the filter folds that the brush didn't get.  Thoroughly saturate the filter...  Thoroughly saturate the filter with the cleaning fluid from the pump-spray bottle and let it air dry completely.  When the filter is totally...  When the filter is totally dry, spray on a good, wet coat of the filter oil and be sure to get it on the insides of the folds for maximal filtering efficiency. Replace the filter in the C5, reconnect the MAF pigtail, slip the air hose on, and tighten the clamp. That's all there is to it. Project 6: Engine Appearance Freshening
Applicable Years: C1, C2, C3
Skill level: 1 Wrench
Tools required: wire brushes, engine paint and disposable brush, steel wool, nitrile gloves, WD-40, compressed air, masking tape, misc. hand tools
Time required: 1-4 hours
Parts source: Paragon Reproductions Over time your engine will acquire a coating of dirt, dust, road grime, and grease, and some parts will become discolored due to oxidation or gasoline/oil seepage. An hour or two (or three or four, if it's really bad) is time well-spent with the improvement you'll see when the job is done. So roll up your sleeves and let's get started.  It looks like it's been really...  It looks like it's been really neglected, doesn't it? But, in truth, this vintage Midyear sees only a couple of hundred miles a year, since it spends most of the time in a trailer. However, dampness, humidity, and time all take their toll on metal in such conditions.  Upon removing the air cleaner,...  Upon removing the air cleaner, the carburetor is the obvious place to start our freshening. It's always a good idea to work top-to-bottom, since any dirt and debris will fall downward, getting cleaned away when you get to the lower portions of the freshening. Be sure to tape over the venturi openings so no crud gets into the carburetor and enters your engine. A wire brush does the trick for the heavy cleaning of the carb body.  A smaller conical wire brush...  A smaller conical wire brush comes in handy for working around the linkage and other hard-to-reach areas.  A blower nozzle attached to...  A blower nozzle attached to your compressor hose or a can of compressed air is great for blowing away dust, dirt, and debris as you're cleaning so you can see what still needs to be done.  Detailing your alternator...  Detailing your alternator is pretty simple by using some steel wool to get the heavy stuff off, as in the case of this chrome alternator; there's really nothing that can be done about the pitting aside from replacing the unit altogether, though.  I certainly didn't need a...  I certainly didn't need a quart of "Chevy orange" engine paint for this detailing job, so I cut the bottom off an empty Poland Springs water bottle, dried it thoroughly, then sprayed a little puddle of aerosol automotive paint into it, which was plenty for my needs.  A cheap disposable 1/2-inch...  A cheap disposable 1/2-inch paint brush is great for touching up spots on the manifold. I've found that bristle brushes work better and last longer than the sponge foam brushes for this job.  The chrome-plated valve covers...  The chrome-plated valve covers are not correct, but they look nice. However, the originals (one of them is at the top) have seen better days, so a new set was ordered from Paragon Reproductions and installed on the engine to give it a little more bling.  And here's what we have about...  And here's what we have about four hours later. Other tasks that were performed, although not shown, included wiping down all the hoses with WD-40, touching up the master cylinder and carb mounting bolts/studs with black paint, and polishing up some of the chrome. Elbow grease and time were the principal ingredients for this project. Conclusion
Well, that wraps it up for this year's Weekend Projects issue. But, if you're like me, there are still plenty of other things that need to be done. See you same time next year!
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