41. MAGNETIC ATTRACTION
Here's another neat shop tip anyone can use: If you have some awkwardmetal bits that need more than two hands to hold in place, try using afew relatively powerful magnets to keep the parts in place. The magnetsfree up your hands and allow you to get the job done. Of course, thistip doesn't apply to Corvette body panels!
42. RIGHT ROD RATIOS
People cling to rod ratios (rod-to-crankshaft stroke percentages) as ifthey are magical. Rod ratios or "l/r" ratios are for the most part thenaturally occurring result of other engine-design criteria. In otherwords, much like with ignition timing (spark advance) they are what theyare. Unless you want to completely redesign the engine (including yourblock deck height, piston compression height, rod length, and so on)don't worry so much about rod ratios. Your time would be better spentsearching for more airflow from the cylinder heads, but that's anotherstory.
43. FLOAT FINE-TUNE
If the engine in your early Corvette runs uneven or surges, thefloat-level setting could be the culprit. Remove the bowl, flip it over,and have a look at the float location. Adjust it (with the externalhardware) to a point where the top (now bottom) of the float is parallel(square) with the inside of the bowl. This is the preliminaryadjustment. Fine-tuning will be accomplished when the engine is running.Repeat the process with the second bowl. And if it's a Tri-power car,repeat once more.
44. SOLDERING STUFF
When working on the electrical system of your Corvette and you need tosolder wire together, use resin core solder. It's the best bet for theapplication. Keep in mind this stuff isn't cheap. But in this case, youlikely don't need to buy it in huge quantities. It's an old tip, butit's still appropriate.
45. FOILING FILTERS
How many of you have an oil filter wrench that slips? Plenty, we'll bet.Instead of buying another wrench and finding that it slips after a shortperiod of time, try this: Wrap several layers of electrical tape aroundthe circumference of the wrench. Then try the wrench. Magic! The wrenchdoesn't slip.
46. VANISHING FUEL
Let's say you don't use your vintage Corvette for some time,particularly in the summer. If that's the case, gas tends to evaporatefrom the fuel bowl (remember, these cars don't have an electric fuelpump as do late-model EFI models). As a result, you'll spendconsiderable time cranking the engine in order for the fuel pump to fillthe float bowl (mechanical pumps). To stop the strain on the starter andbattery, try this: Use a small funnel with an inner diameter of 3/8inch, place it over the float-bowl vent tube, and pour a small amount ofgas into the bowl. Bingo. The Corvette will usually start immediately.
47. WRENCH FIT
When thinking about tools, the actual "fit" of the wrench is somethingmost folks ignore. Believe it or not, if you have trouble with wrenchesthat routinely slip off fasteners (and consequently give you a case ofbusted, bleeding knuckles) and regularly round off fastener corners, theproblem is likely the tool. You see, a good-quality wrench such as theMac combination wrenches have closer tolerances than some departmentstore tools. Keep this stuff in mind. You'll appreciate it if you'vebeen spending far too much time reaching for the first aid kit in yourshop.
48. COOL-HEADED
See that weatherstrip seal between the fan and radiator? This high-temperature seal increases fan efficiency considerably. It's like addinga shroud to a conventional engine- driven fan. Try it. It could solve ahot-headed Corvette in a heartbeat.
49. FLUSH WITH FLUID
If you have a vintage Corvette, flush the brake fluid! Years (perhapsdecades) of rust, scale, and crud manage to collect in the brake lines.In turn, this stops the brake system from working to its designpotential. The simplest way to flush brake lines is to open up thebleeder screws and let Mother Nature do the work. Keep the brakereservoir full with fresh fluid (DOT 3 or better). Repeat the processuntil the expelled fluid is clean. Expect to use a few cans of freshbrake fluid.
50. DRESSING DOWN
After the tires on your Corvette are cleaned, allow them to drycompletely before applying any dressings. Once the dressing is applied,allow it to soak for at least half an hour before you wipe off anyexcess. Of course, this doesn't apply to dressing overspray--wipe thatstuff off immediately!
51. McTORQUE
When tightening any assembly held together with a number of fasteners(for example, Corvette engine parts), Mac Tools states that eachfastener should be tightened down a little at a time, going to eachfastener in turn, until the specified torque has been reached. Mac Toolssuggests you follow this practice when torquing fasteners:
* Apply 3/4 of the specified torque to each fastener.
* Reset the wrench and tighten each fastener to the specified torque.
After tightening all the fasteners, repeat the final tightening to makecertain all fasteners are at the specified torque.
52. CONE HEADS
Popular replacement conical-style air filters used in some late-modelCorvette performance "kits" should be shielded from air movement createdby the fan, particularly in EFI applications (where they're the mostcommon). If they aren't shielded, the mass-air meter gives incorrectsignals to the computer.
53. LIGHT HEADED
When dealing with aluminum cylinder heads and/or aluminum cylinderblocks, cold lash numbers can vary greatly from the hot figures. Why?Because aluminum moves around significantly more than cast iron whenhot. Because of this, you can understand why (and how) valve-lashfigures often become decidedly different with "aluminum" combinations.Although it's difficult to provide hard and fast numbers for all cam andengine combinations, Chevrolet offers this advice: "Cold-lashall-aluminum engines are 0.010 inch tighter than hot-lashspecifications." Generally speaking, you can use this as a startingpoint. Some aluminum-head/iron-block combinations are close to anall-iron engine in terms of cold lash while others might be anywherefrom 0.005- to 0.010-inch tighter. Do what we do: Contact your camgrinder and ask for a specific cold-lash number for your particularcombination.
54. CARBON EXODUS
Here's a tip from the ancient past, and it still works: If you have anengine that's filled with carbon, the best way to clean up the works isto flush it away with water. Fill a small squirt bottle with water (acommon sports-drink squirt bottle works great). Remove the air cleaner.Start the engine. With one hand on the throttle (lever), lightly tricklethe water from the sports bottle into the carburetor or throttle body.Simultaneously, keep the engine rpm to a point where it will run(remember, water doesn't burn). The idea here isn't to flood the enginewith water; the last thing you need to do is hydraulic the engine. Theidea is to steam the carbon free in the engine.
55. DISTRIBUTOR ELECTROLYSIS
If at all possible, don't use spark-plug wires with brass terminalsalong with a distributor cap with aluminum inserts (normally a cheapcap). Why? Moisture will create corrosion. The result will be poor sparkand even worse performance.
56. DOWN THE DRAIN
There is a seal between the oil pan and drain plug on your Corvette. Ifthe plug is overtightened (for example, by the gorilla at the localquick lube), there's a good chance the seal (often plastic or copper)will be distorted. The result? A persistent drip. The solution? Buy anew seal.
57. SPRING'S THE THING
Buy a number of alligator or spring clamps in several different sizesand keep them in your toolbox. They come in handy when sizing pieces(such as upholstery material) to be cut. They also hold things firmlyuntil adhesive sets up. It's like having a second pair of hands during aCorvette restoration.
58. CLOGGED DRAINS
Do you have a C4 Corvette with what appears to be a fuel-related hardstart or lean condition? Have a fuel sample test done to see if anywater has contaminated the fuel. If it has, check the rear fuel-fillcompartment seal to see if the drain is plugged. A clogged drain cancause rain or car wash water to back up into the fuel-tank filler tube.
59. HOLE IN ONE
Valve stems are valve stems, right? Maybe not. Many Corvette enthusiastsforget about the actual size of the valve-stem hole. This might not seemlike a big deal, but given the differences in wheels, it's a good ideato grab your calipers and measure the diameter of the hole. Why? Mostscrew-in metal valve stems are sold in varying diameters.
60. MATCHING NUMBERS
Ring-and-pinion gears are matched pairs, and should never be mixed withgears from other sets.